Take a leisurely stroll along Khao Tao beach, arguably the loveliest and most pristine along Hua Hin’s Royal Coast, and you can’t fail to notice the newest boutique hotel in town. Nestled in a perfectly manicured, fragrant garden lies Charras Bhawan, a collection of stunning, re-imagined, traditionally styled villas of yesteryear, lovingly brought back to life by a team of passionate grandchildren keen to honour the memory of their beloved grandmother, Khun Yaa Charras Sanidvongs Na Ayudhaya, affectionately known as Khun Yaa.
From the first moment you arrive in the car park, you will feel that there is something quite special and unique about this place. The standard of service is all you would expect, and more, of a 5-star resort hotel, yet with a much greater sense of warmth and welcome. At Charras Bhawan, you are a family member who has yet to be met.
My afternoon, as a guest of the owners, was one I will remember all my life, not only because of the delicious food on offer, but also because of the generosity of Khun Jong, the middle child of the ownership team, who took time out of his busy schedule to give me a personal tour of this magnificent property. His older sister, Khun Jah, is the hotel’s Chief of Marketing and his younger sister, Khun Jill, is Chief Financial Officer, and together they have structured a formidable team to use their skills to full advantage.
Located on a sizeable parcel of absolute beachfront land originally purchased by their grandparents exactly a century ago in 1922, Charras Bhawan comprises four villas for accommodation and Pawan, an exceptional restaurant with a traditional Thai menu.
Villa Taweewadh, named after the owners’ grandfather, is the largest building on the property. It is a recreation of the first house built in the 1920s, which was extended in later years as more relatives and friends took a month-long stay in the tranquilly of Khao Tao, away from the bustle of Bangkok. In those times, a trip to Hua Hin meant a lengthy train ride, then transport via bullock cart along Hua Hin and Khao Tao beaches. The original carts used by the family are preserved for inspection on the property and are just a small part of the history that permeates the estate. These days, Villa Taweewadh is made up of 4 zones, each with 2 bedrooms, accommodating a family group of up to 16–20 individuals. Alternatively, a group of friends or a business group could choose Villa Taweewadh as a very comfortable and stylish base for their activities. All the villas, with the exception of Villa Valaya, which has its own private freshwater pool, have stunning views of the ocean from their balconies, along with oversized jacuzzis.
Villa Cagney takes its name from the nickname used by Khun Yaa for her only son, the father of the owners. The original Villa Cagney dates from 1942, when it was built to celebrate his first birthday. A very generous birthday gift indeed. A pair of horsetail trees of around 100 years of age stand proudly guarding the front of the villa, which is now divided into 2 suites, the Dandy and the Canary, two important names from the movies of the American actor, James Cagney, Khun Yaa’s favourite.
Villa de Jong, named for the hotel’s Chief Creative Officer, was originally named Baan Gao Hong, the nine-roomed house, and was the home of up to nine large families who made up the estate’s staff. Khun Jong has renovated and redesigned the building as his personal art gallery and museum. Indeed, according to Khun Usa, the hotel manager, many of the modern artworks which adorn the walls of the hotel are creations of Khun Jong, who studied Fine Arts at university. Khun Jong, ever modest, refused to identify his personal works of art to me.
Villa Valaya, named after the owners’ mother, Khun Akkawan, and also Khun Masawan, her eldest daughter, was the most recent of the original structures on the property. It consisted of two houses; a larger residence and a smaller, separate kitchen. An even more recent renovation saw the two converted into magnificent villa suites on either side of the pool.
Villa Pawan, which was built at the same time as Villa Cagney, was used as a guest house for the family’s friends. Later, it was the home of Khun Pawanwaree, and has become the restaurant “Pawan” in the most recent update, a fitting tribute to Khun Pawanwaree, a passionate foodie who used many of Khun Yaa’s original recipes. Upstairs from the restaurant, which boasts both indoor and outdoor dining for up to 70 patrons, is a stunning terrace with sweeping views of the sea and the moon rise, a perfect venue for pre-dinner drinks. As well, there is a private dining room which can be booked for events. It is a treasure trove of old things and things that remind the owners of their father, who was an avid hunter and sports shooter.
Khun Jong cites Ralph Lauren and his philosophy of appreciation of what has come before, and the beauty of the timeless and lasting over the race to be fashionable, as a key inspiration. He has achieved a remarkable reimagination of the estate in its halcyon days of the 1930s and 1940s and has put his own personal stamp on each and every aspect of the property. From the building design to the interior layout and fittings, from the colour palette to the high-quality linens and soft furnishings, from the artwork to the seemingly random placement of memorabilia, the whole property is a testament to the eye for detail of Khun Jong.
His ability to combine modern needs (internet access, Smart TV use) with the timeless nature of his family history is truly remarkable.His eclectic sense of style sees him juxtapose an intricately adorned cover for a monk’s bowl opposite an abstract canvas painted in bold fluorescent colours. This beautiful property is full of surprises, from the volcanic rock from Bali that lines the turquoise pool to the historic louvre doors in many of the suites that were saved from a renovation of the Thai Parliament building in Bangkok.
Visitors, whether Thai or foreign, will appreciate the commonality of family that is captured by Charras Bhawan. I noted memorabilia that was very similar to pieces my grandparents and great-grandparents would also have used in their daily lives; a pair of decanters for after-dinner liquor caught my eye in particular.
The importance of family is something that visitors to Charras Bhawan will not fail to notice. The hotel caters most intentionally to the extended family group, and children are not only welcomed, they are highly honoured guests. A visit to Charras Bhawan allows for the creation of many happy memories and the bonding of the family. Indeed, “Binding time together” is an axiom of the hotel.
The family of the owners has a long and proud history of supporting the local community of Khao Tao, something I was able to verify for myself as I was allowed access to the family photo album, which contains images dating back up to a century. It contains photos of the Khao Tao headland in its wild, natural state before any of the Wat’s buildings and Buddhas were erected, alongside photos of the visit to Khao Tao by His Majesty King Rama IX, when he had a meal at the beachside Rosthip restaurant, which is still open today.
Along with their historic support of the local school, the family continues to support the royal project, OTOP, which provides employment to locals, who weave stylish cotton cloth, which is used at Charras Bhawan in staff uniforms, guest bathrobes, amenity bags and the like. Indeed, the history of the original property and that of Khao Tao are very tightly interwoven and will continue to be so into the future. When Khun Usa was telling me about this history, tears appeared, unannounced, in her eyes. All the staff share a personal connection to the history of Charras Bhawan.
The food at Pawan Restaurant is traditional Thai cuisine, which will delight both foreign and Thai guests. It is Thai food at its most refined and most beautifully presented. Yet again, attention to detail is tantamount. Every dish is a feast for the senses. We were treated to a set luncheon menu of 6 dishes, served on a bronze platter. Having undertaken a workshop in Thai fruit and vegetable carving, I know how pitiful my attempts were, and the dexterity and hours of training it takes to achieve the results we saw on the plate. It was fine dining at its very best, with the dishes almost too beautiful to eat. But we managed, somehow.
The traditional afternoon tea, set up specially and served to us in the cool of the shaded garden, was again a thing of wonder. No jam scones or chocolate mousse here, just classics that Thai grandmothers and great-grandmothers would serve to their extended families. Khun Usa was right when he said that the afternoon tea was just as good as the one served at Hua Hin’s McFarland House.
I do believe it is best that I end this piece of writing now. I have completely run out of superlatives.
